Despite Phuket's many surf, shopping and seafood attractions, Rebecca Lo finds that the best way to enjoy the island is by reclining on her villa's lounger to watch the sun dip into the Andaman Sea.
The day before our scheduled flight to Phuket, Somsri Hansirisawasdi, who represented our resort Trisara, gave me a call from Bangkok.
"You are still coming tomorrow, right?"
She was referring to the military curfew imposed just that day in her country. Many of its Asian neighbors issued travel warnings after the military coup that plastered Thailand across headlines this spring.
Unlike other more politically volatile countries, Thailand's international press coverage seems worse than its bite. I confirmed that we were indeed looking forward to our mini holiday. I could almost see her sigh of relief. Perhaps because we stuck with our plans, we were given more of a royal treatment than usual upon our arrival at Phuket International Airport.
While I've been to Thailand multiple times, it was my first visit to the resort island of Phuket. During the 15-minute drive to Trisara, I was struck by how much the jungle still dominated. It is well-documented that Phuket has become extremely commercial over the past few decades, with vacation home prices surpassing those in the south of France.
But the island's many headlands, natural bays and white sandy beaches mean that there will always be a secluded spot for everyone from the frugal backpacker to the paparazzi-plagued celebrity.
Our driver pulled up to the driveway of a spacious three-bedroom villa with a gorgeous infinity-edge swimming pool that was bigger than many hotel pools.
I quickly discovered that having two butlers around was something I easily became accustomed to. They were discreet yet readily available to brew fresh coffee, whip up delicious snacks or call us a buggy to take us to other parts of the hilly resort - all delivered with big smiles.
After getting a tour of the villa, we headed north to stretch our legs on nearby Naithon Beach. Trisara sits on a southwest-facing headland, with every one of its 50 villas strategically placed for privacy and sea views.
We loved the white sand of Naithon Beach, although the rough waves prevented us from doing more than getting our feet wet. There were the usual small shops selling beach gear, outdoor stands grilling fish and a few massage parlors.
We headed back to our villa to change for sunset drinks at The Bar, followed by a lobster feast at Trisara Seafood. Every Friday evening, the al fresco restaurant offers a five-course dinner with lobster featured in every dish. I loved the lobster sashimi starter and squid-ink pasta with lobster and tomato, but could have done without oddly sweet lobster souffle.
Between courses, Trisara's general manager Antoine Melon dropped by our table to ensure that we had everything we needed. I noticed that due to the 10 pm curfew imposed by the Thai government, many tables were filled by 8 pm as other Trisara guests returned to spend the rest of the evening back at their villas. While this may be hurting the nightlife along Patong Beach, we appreciated being able to thoroughly enjoy all that our resort had to offer.
Early the next morning, we greeted the day with sun salutations on our terrace. Trisara normally offers yoga in its beachfront sala, but it can also accommodate small groups with a private instructor in their villa. I was sweating profusely after the first 15 minutes, and really enjoyed the stretches at the start of the day.
Afterward, we drove into Phuket town for breakfast at Boon Rat Dim Sum, a local joint that dishes up Thai-style dim sum. We were fascinated by how different the same dumplings could be in Thailand.
We learned that cashews were a big export for Phuket, and dropped into Methee Phuket to browse its endless shelves of cashew products. Settling on seaweed and sesame flavors to take home after taste-testing them, we happily strolled deeper into Phuket's Chinatown.
Thalang Road marks the origins of Phuket's urban center, and its architecture consists of picturesque Sino-Portuguese two-story shop houses in a riot of colors. We marveled at the deft hand of a Malay cook frying up delicious smelling roti, but diligently saved our stomaches for lunch at The Boathouse's Wine & Grill.
With a gorgeous view of Kata Beach, The Boathouse is a boutique hotel with an adjacent clubhouse that is like a younger, hipper sibling to Trisara's old-school luxury. The calm and sheltered water near the beach makes it a popular spot for vacationing families all year.
At lunch we were treated to a trio of fresh seafood salads. A lighter-than-air cheese souffle and grilled sea bass followed, accompanied by a crisp sauvignon blanc. We wanted to linger over our dessert of poached peaches in ginger syrup, but we reluctantly departed as we had massage appointments.
On the way, I bought some sandalwood-infused shower gel that reminds me of Phuket every time I use it.
My massage back at Trisara's spacious spa really helped to get out the kinks in my neck and shoulders. My therapist was very thorough, and left every inch of me completely relaxed.
We finished the day with a private barbecue featuring grilled prawns, lamb chops and chicken prepared by a chef on our terrace. A view of the sunset with mango and sticky rice on a sun lounger made me realize that sometimes the best way to enjoy a holiday is by not doing anything at all.
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